Posts Tagged ‘ 3506 ’

How to add easy elastic ruching

I often lean on elastic ruching to get things to fit better, because my sewing sometimes takes shortcuts.

Like adding dimension to long t-shirts and tops. And taking up mermaid skirts without hemming. And sucking in the backs of dresses that don’t have much shaping.

It’s really easy to do. You need thin elastic or elastic cord, pins and a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

First, figure out where you want the ruching to go and how long you want it to be. You can do this by stretching the elastic out, or by measuring with a tape. Measure out elastic in that length, plus one inch so you’ll have half an inch on each end.

ruching measure

Pin the elastic at the top point, sticking pins in perpendicular to the elastic you’ll sew. Pin the elastic at the bottom end. Now match the middle of the elastic to the midpoint of the fabric and pin.

ruching pin middle

Keep stretching, matching the middles…

ruching stretch then pin more

…and pinning a few times until you’ve secured the elastic in place.

ruching keep pinning middles

ruching all pinned

Set your machine to a middle-wide zig zag. My machine uses a 1-5 scale; I use the #3 setting.

Drop in a few stitches, stretch the fabric and elastic and sew slowly until you’ve secured the whole piece.

ruching drop needle

ruching pull taut while stitching


ruching stitched

ruching finished right side

(I tell you this, though, knowing I ended up putting darts in the back of my dress remake. Didn’t want to lose my waist.)

Dress tried, dress needs more fitting

The back of my remade dress is still too bunchy. I never made the darts from the instructions, and on purpose, too.

dress back's still bunchy

Now that the rest is done, it’s time to figure out how to make it sleeker without wrecking the fabric’s print on the back.

dress - back's still big

The darts are still an option, only low ones in the black band so the print doesn’t get mashed up.

dress - darts?

But what about some ruching across the back with an elastic band?

dress - elastic?

Oh dress, so close!

I skipped the back darts for now. I tend to finish clothes, wear them out in the world once then go back and fix what bothers me.

dress almost done

So I left my dress-from-dress in the sink this morning, soaking in a little Woolite to get out both the red sewing markings and the vintage stink.

The finished little guy might need darts added in once it’s dry and on. I also plan to put in side belt loops I think I will quickly scrounge up from cotton crochet thread to hold the existing belt from the original dress.

So close!

Almost out of old dress for new dress

I cut out the outer pieces first from this Lorac Original, division of Lady Carol size 16 dress:

Key when cutting from very limited source.

Front. Back. Rectangles for front yoke. Back facing (see?).

This is all that’s left.

The front facing will be tight. I’m going to have to unpick the placket. Which is already interfaced. And if it doesn’t work… time to dive in the scrap bin.

What if I said ‘F that zipper’?

And just sew up the back?

I’m making this Simplicity 3506 dress from this other little knit thrifted dress.

And I ended up cutting the front of the Simplicity from the front of a shirtdress with buttons halfway up the front. Only one button and buttonhole survived, but one button and buttonhole still function.

So I sewed up the center back to the notch as written. Sewed the shoulders, pressed seam allowances flat and then, Aha!

What if I don’t have to insert a zipper up the back? What if the V-neck of the dress combined with the buttoned up placket of the fabric were enough to poke my fat head through? Like I just sewed it up neatly, like this?

Goddamnit, I think that’ll do. I think it’ll work.

F that zipper now!