How to…sew French seams (and why bother)
French seams encase the raw seam edges securely inside two seams. They’re necessary for delicate fabrics, because two seams are stronger than one and the two lines of stitching prevent fraying. But French seams also are fabulous for garments with simple, straight lines because they’re beautifully clean and neat, and need no more finishing. I’m hooked, mostly because I hate finishing edges.
Here’s the center back seam of BurdaStyle’s Minna top.
Take the seam allowance of the seam and divide it into two whole numbers. So a 5/8″ allowance becomes 2/8″ (1/4″), plus 3/8″.
Pin the pieces together wrong sides together.
Sew the smaller number first – the 2/8″ (1/4″) seam allowance. I’ve done so by using the 3/8″ guide, and setting the needle placement to the right.
Trim the raw edges, leaving 1/8″.
Push the raw edges to one side, and press flat.
Now fold the fabric over at the seam, so the right sides are facing each other. Press and tack with a few pins.
Back at the machine, sew your remaining 3/8″ seam.
Voila! A 5/8″ seam with no rough raggedy edges.
French seam from wrong side
Check out the how to on Burda Style here.